Showing posts with label Advice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Advice. Show all posts

Show me the plastic money! (Update)

(updated September 2013 to take into account changes in Citi's ThankYou Premier card)

In honor of a young padewan who hopes never to fly coach again, I am updating a post from a few years back.  As veteran credit card schemer Gary Leff lays out, there are generally 3 reasons to hold a credit card:
  1. Bonuses - Miles and points that are good toward travel or gift cards.
  2. Benefits - Getting free price protection, primary rental car insurance, lounge access, or companion travel passes.
  3. Rebates - Earning a rebate on your everyday purchases meaningfully more than the standard 1% back.
One of the key things to keep in mind is that everyone has different spending patterns and utility functions, so no one strategy is going to work for everyone.  More on that below.

Bonuses

We are living in a second Golden Age of credit card bonuses.  The first was when credit cards let you earn bonuses on the same cards more than once, but most banks have wised up and no longer let you "churn" cards.  This second Golden Age is the age of humungous sign-up bonuses.  I remember signing up for credit cards for a 10,000 mile bonus, and paying an annual fee for the privilege.  Today, that's chump change, and furthermore only chumps pay annual fees.  I believe today's golden age of monster bonuses are a result of the Durbin Amendment, which is creating strong incentives for banks to get consumers to adopt credit cards over debit cards.  How long issuer incentives will last is not clear, but I suggest taking advantage the bonuses while you can.

Bonuses are pretty straightforward.  The issuers advertise a lump sum of points or miles, usually with minimum spending requirements.   If you had the card before, issuers like Chase and American Express will deny you from getting the same bonus again.  There used to also be 0% balance transfer bonuses, but today virtually all of these offers have a minimum fee that makes it not worthwhile.  My advice here is to do two things:
  • Hold out for the big bonuses. Bonuses worth less than $300 are a waste of a credit inquiry. Also be aware of how big bonuses have been historically. For example, the British Airways card from Chase offers 50,000 miles, which seems like a lot until you remember that they have offered 100,000 miles twice before.  Similarly, in the previous post, I note that the Citi ThankYou Preferred card had an unusual 50,000 point bonus (link still working, but no guarantees) vs. the typical 25,000 point bonus, so if you ever want to own this card for the bonus, last week was a good time.
  • Apply for cards that will disappear. Since you (usually) can't earn bonuses more than once, cards that are going away are use-it-or-lose-it opportunities to earn miles. This usually happens when 1) an airline gets merged (e.g. Northwest bought by Delta), 2) an airline changes credit card partners (U.S. Airways switching from Bank of America to Barclays), or 3) when card products get changed (e.g. Citi's PremierPass cards changing to ThankYou cards). In each of these cases, you have an opportunity to double dip (i.e. earn miles twice in the same program with the predecessor and successor cards). 
What you should do today: Apply for the Continental OnePass Plus card before it disappears (likely in March) and earn 25,000 Continental miles with the potential for 50,000 miles if you point out that United has a 50,000 mile offer.

Benefits

There are several categories of benefits, ranging from travel to price protection. Below are the key benefits that cards generally offer.  Which you find most valuable obviously depends on your travel and spending patterns.
  • Companion passes: Most companion passes are pretty worthless because they are capacity controlled or require you to pay a higher fare level.  But several programs have passes that are very worthwhile: 1) Chase British Airways gives you a companion pass for a mileage redemption but you must spend $30,000 on the card to earn one, 2) BofA Alaska Airlines card gives you a companion pass good for any class of service (think First Class to Hawaii), 3) Citi ThankYou cards give you companion tickets for domestic (Premier card) and international (Prestige card) travel.
  • Price protection: This is an increasing rare benefit but can be very valuable.  If you buy something but find it cheaper later, you can get a check for the difference.  American Express used to offer this benefit but stopped.  Today, some credit cards like the Citi ThankYou Premier offer it.  I have a credit card that offers it for Internet prices (!), but this card is no longer open to new customers.
  • Primary CDW rental insurance: When you rent a car, your credit card more often than not offers a form of insurance.  However, with a few exceptions, this insurance is not primary insurance--it's secondary to your own personal insurance.  So when does secondary insurance get triggered?  Almost never.  Some cards like the Continental OnePass Plus offer primary rental insurance. Nerdwallet has a list of current cards offering primary insurance.
  • Free checked bags: Most airlines offer a credit card where you can get free checked bags.
  • Lounge access: Some people love airline lounges and good for them.  Cards that offer lounge access include the American Express Platinum card (American, Delta, US Airways) and the Citi Prestige card.  Continental Presidential Plus offers lounge access to United and Continental lounges.
  • Elite status: Some cards also offer hotel elite status, generally at the middle tier.  The American Express Platinum card offers complimentary gold status with Starwood and the Citi Prestige offers complimentary gold with Hilton.
  • Roadside assistance: American Express Gold and Platinum cars offer this benefit for $50 per incident.  The United MileagePlus Explorer card offers a similar benefit.
What you should do today: Ask yourself whether any of the benefits above are "must-have" and see if the annual fee is worth it.

Rebates - Miles & points

Do you earn less than $500 worth of rebates from your credit cards every year?  You might be able to do better.  This is the most complex way of earning rewards, but it can pay off.  Assuming that you can manage spending and payments on a multitude of cards, your optimal spending strategy depends a lot on your pattern of spending and how much you value miles and points.  How much you value miles and points depends on your utility for premium travel, your travel patterns, and your travel flexibility.

For example, I recently redeemed miles for premium cabin airline tickets worth about $35,000, or $0.16 per mile redeemed.  Would I pay $35,000 for this travel?  Um...no.  What would I pay?  Maybe $5,000, or $0.02 per mile redeemed.  Was it a pain to use these miles?  Absolutely.  We didn't get the dates we wanted, and we almost changed our destination based on availability.  Would I rather have had $5,000 in cash to buy tickets on the days I wanted?  Probably.  Miles can buy great deals on travel--especially premium cabins--but they can be frustrating and time consuming to use.  Because I don't value premium cabins much, I value most miles at about 1.5 cents per mile.  A lot of the travel experts value them at triple that, because they prefer to travel in business/first all the time.  Some people value their legroom.

Programs like Chase's Ultimate Rewards or Citi's ThankYou points can be hard to value. Chase points can convert directly into United miles if you have a Chase Sapphire or Chase Ink card, so you can value them as airline miles which are a good use of the points.  Citi's ThankYou points are generally worth less than a penny, unless you have a Citi Premier card (which adds 25% in value when redeeming for airfare) or a Citi Prestige card (which adds 33%).  So if you have both a Citi Prestige card and a Citi Forward card, each dollar you spend at restaurants and Amazon.com convert to 5 points that are redeemable for 6.67 cents in airfare.  So you have some travel experts tripping over themselves to get 2.14 miles per dollar in restaurant spending, but they are giving up 6.67 cents in airfare that would earn them those precious miles that they forfeit by using mileage.  It's worth it to accumulate miles if you will redeem them for business or first class, but if you find yourself redeeming miles for economy travel, take a step back and consider cash/point alternatives.  Let's take some examples.  Plugging in a date in March, I get airfare on Cathay Pacific of:

SFO-HKG
Economy
SFO-HKG
Business
Cash $1,103 $5,973
Miles (if available!!!)70,000 miles spent110,000 miles spent
Value per mile
(before taxes & opportunity costs)
1.6¢5.4¢
Taxes & opportunity costs
(don't forget!!!)
13,800 miles earned on cash
$350 taxes on award
17,250 miles earned with cash
$350 taxes on award
Value per mile
(after taxes & opportunity costs)
0.9¢4.4¢
Value per mile as elite member
(after taxes & opportunity costs)
0.8¢4.0¢

So what to conclude from this?  If redeeming for economy travel, your value per mile is pretty poor.  If your travel dates are rigid (e.g if you usually travel during the holidays), then plan on spending double the miles and getting 1/2 the value per mile shown above if traveling on your loyalty program's own planes but forget it if you're relying on alliance partners, who generally offer seats using "saver" award capacity.  But even if you're redeeming miles for business class travel, consider this: the 110,000 miles I spent could have easily earned $2,200 in cash back rewards using a simple 2% back credit card.  Would I rather 1) redeem miles and fly business (subject to availability) or 2) spend $1,103 for an economy ticket, save $350 in award taxes, and have $1,447 more to spend in Hong Kong while earning miles and status for my next trip?  Suddenly, 4 cents per mile doesn't look as good.  If someone gave me $1,447 to downgrade from business to economy, I would probably take it.

So what to do about airfare if miles aren't the answer?  Citi PremierPrestige cards can be 2.66% cashback cards if you buy airfare from time to time or even if you just redeem miles, providing that the taxes are over $49.99.  You see, using Citi Prestige, you can earn ThankYou points for the miles you fly, not just the money you spend on a ticket.  So recently I redeemed 12,500 miles for a one-way ticket cross country and paid the close-in fee of $50 on Continental.  Because I charged it to my PremierPrestige card, I banked ~2,500 "flight points."  They get released only when I spend an equal amount in dollar purchases.  So my 1 point back effectively becomes a 2 points back as long as I keep banking flight points.  And these 2 points are worth 2.66 cents in airfare with a Citi Prestige, as I mentioned earlier, and when you combine it with a Citi Forward, more categories are bonused, including Amazon.com.  Citi Prestige has a hefty annual fee but it's lowered if you are a Citigold customer.  Chase Sapphire is also a solid card because you earn 2 miles per dollar, but it depends on how much you value premium travel.

Rebates - Cash & equivalents

Below is a list of rebate categories and notable credit cards in each category.  If this table gives you a headache, do yourself a favor and skip this post and consider just signing up for the Fidelity Investment Rewards Visa card, which pays 1.5% back (2% above $15,000 in spending) on everything you buy or the Fidelity Amex, which gives you 2% cash back on everything you buy.  Also, if the card carries an annual fee (e.g. Chase Sapphire, Citi Premier), it might be worth just keeping it simple if your spending in these categories is less than $10,000/year, which is the incremental reward on a 3% vs. 1% that would justify two $100 annual fees.

The table of cashback rewards shows mostly cards that have no annual fees, partly because many annual fee cards don't pay off beyond the first-year bonus unless you're a big spender.  But I have noted annual fee points and miles cards that are particularly rewarding and worth getting if you spend a lot in these categories.  Note that the Amex Blue Cash skims your cashback until you pay out the equivalent of an annual fee and the Costco TrueEarnings requires a paid Costco membership, but who's counting?  I also left out cards like the Bank Americard have rewards that are inferior to the Penfed Platinum Cashback Rewards.
Category2% 3%5%>5%Points/miles
alternatives (with annual fees)
Bookstores
Chase Amazon (Amazon only)Citi Forward* (includes Amazon!)Amex OPEN (6% at Barnes & Noble***)
DrugstoresChase Amazon

^Amex Blue Cash
GasolineAmerican Express Premier RewardsCostco TrueEarnings Amex Consumer card
Costco TrueEarnings Amex Business card (4%)
Amex SimplyCash
Penfed Platinum Cashback Rewards
Discover More**
Chase Freedom**
^Amex Blue CashChase Ink Bold/Plus (2 points/$)
GroceriesPenfed Platinum Cashback Rewards
Discover More**
Chase Freedom**
^Amex Blue CashAmerican Express Premier Rewards
RestaurantsChase AmazonCostco TrueEarnings AmexCiti Forward*
Discover More**
Chase Freedom**

Chase Sapphire (2 points/$)
Office Supplies

Amex SimplyCashAmex SimplyCash (10% at Kinkos***)Chase Ink Bold/Plus (5 points/$)
Telecom

Amex SimplyCash (wireless)
Chase Ink Bold/Plus (wireless, landline, cable, internet)
Travel (see below for additional bonuses)Costco TrueEarnings AmexCiti Expedia (4% with award redemptions)

Discover More**
Chase Freedom**
Chase Sapphire (2 points/$)
Travel - Airfare


Citi PreferredAmerican Express Premier Rewards
Citi Premier
Travel - Car rental


Amex OPEN (6% at Hertz***)
Travel - Hotels
Amex OPEN (4% at Hyatt***)
Amex OPEN (6% at Marriott***)Starwood Amex (2 points per $ at Starwood hotels)
Hilton Amex (9 points per $ at Hilton hotels)

^ Requires $6,500 in spending before reaching these payout tiers.  Update: This card is no longer offered.
* Comes with a 33% bonus if you also have a Citi Prestige card.
** Bonus categories rotate quarterly but often enough in these categories to warrant mention.
*** Amex small business cards receive cash back from OPEN merchants in addition to the regular rewards program.  Unless otherwise stated, this chart assumes regular program pays 1%.  However, if you use, say the Costco Business Amex, your payout could be higher.

What you should do today: Assess your spending and see if you spend enough at any of these categories to switch.  My favorite is the Citi Forward card for 6.7% back at Amazon.com and restaurants.  Don't forget that sign-up bonuses can be substantial, even for these cards that you get for ongoing spending and not just the bonus.
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Predicting Amazon price movements

It used to be that you didn't have to worry much about finding the right price when buying at Amazon, because you could use their now-expired pricing policy that would refund you the difference for any price cuts within 30 days.  Now that prices tend to gyrate like the stock market, you're better off knowing where the price has been before you buy something at Amazon.  There's two pretty good sites for this:


  • Camelcamelcamel: Okay, they are not the best brand consultants, but it's a very useful site that has price history for the most popular items.  You can even sign up to RSS feeds of products that you're looking to buy, and you'll know when Amazon drops its price, though this information is not instantaneous.

  • Ama-zone: Also a good site with good price graphs.  Fewer features than Camel, but all the prices are plotted on 1 chart, which makes for better comparisons.



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Creative Bing deals: 35% off computer equipment, 55% off North Face apparel

Here are a few creative examples of ways to take advantage of the Microsoft* Bing Cashback insanity:



Combine Bing with other discounts: Computer deal - Solid state disk drive (OCZ Summit 120GB)



  • Amazon price: $388.04
  • Shop TigerDirect through Bing.com (search for "tiger direct" to get 12.5% back, instead of the usual 10%)

  • Buy the disk drive (item #O261-6218) for $369.99 plus $1.99 for shipping
  • Get your $46.25 from Bing instantly (it should show up on your checkout page)
  • Pay with PayPal to get $20 back on your $200+ purchase (works with Bing because it's not a coupon and your invoice doesn't show any PayPal discount)
  • Get a $40 rebate from OCZ
  • Net price: $265.73

Using the price match**: North Face Denali jacket



  • Regular price: $165
  • Shop Altrec through Bing or shop Moosejaw through Bing
  • Find your favorite Denali jacket at FULL PRICE (i.e. one that is NOT one of the hideous colors from last season, incidentally only available in fluorescent purple in XXL) and buy it at full price
  • Get your 24.2% back from Bing ($39.92)
  • Call in to price match by giving them the link the jacket at a cheaper price, like SunnySports for $117.95 and get 105% of the price difference ($49.35); N.B.: do the price matching AFTER you buy, because you want to get the Bing cashback on the regular price, not the discounted price
  • Final price: $75.68

* Actually, the stores pay Microsoft for the advertising, but I have a
sneaking suspicion that Microsoft adds some of its own marketing budget
to the fire during these Double Savings Days.



** Don't feel bad about taking advantage of price matching.  The primary reason retailers have it is to dissuade other retailers from cutting prices (in which case everyone has low prices and no one can gain market share).  It's a way for them to collude to hold prices artificially high.

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Microsoft Bing cashback bumps up payouts

(expires August 31)

Microsoft's Bing offers cash back if you shop through their Bing.com search engine and shopping portal.  At one point, things got a bit crazy, with Microsoft previously rebating 35% of your eBay purchases and 40% of your shoe purchases before things cooled down.  You could have wisely assumed such insanity would never return again.  But you would have been wrong.  With the launch of their Bing brand, cash back is back to crazy levels for many retailers as of yesterday:


Especially good deals include shoes, outdoor apparel, and electronics.  Do not use any coupons in combination with these offers, because Microsoft is getting stricter in its enforcement of its policy prohibiting the use of coupons (see clause 17g).
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Discounted Costco and Sam's Club memberships

Costco and Sam's Club are members-only warehouse clubs that are really good programs if you buy in bulk (for a family or small business) or if you are buying a big-ticket item.  They occasionally run sign-up bonuses to sweeten the membership, like they are offering now:



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Free Amazon Prime for 3 months is back

(expires February 13)

For anyone who has never experienced the joys of free 2nd-day shipping, you can quickly and easily get a 3-month free trial of Amazon Prime.


  1. Put an eligible textbook into your shopping cart

  2. Proceed to checkout and select 2-day shipping

  3. Confirm your free trial

  4. (optional - if you want to end your service after the trial) Go to
    "Manage My Prime Membership" and disable the automatic upgrade



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End of price matching at Amazon

Samsungtv
Today Amazon is ending its post-order price-matching policy, which let you get a refund on purchases if Amazon lowered its prices within 30 days after your purchase.  This policy was great -- effectively letting you get the lowest price that Amazon offers within a 30-day window.  I have received hundreds of dollars through this policy.  It's a sad, sad day.



Starting September 1, purchases will no longer be covered by this policy.  In anticipation of this change, here are a few deals on bigger-ticket items at Amazon that you could take advantage of:





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Free Amazon Prime for 3 months for those who've never had it

Amazon Prime is a great subscription program from Amazon.com that give you free 2-day shipping on most items sold at Amazon.  Now, if you've never had Amazon Prime, you can try it for 3 months for free.  They've had free trial offers before for $79/year, but they tended to be targeted offers.  Here's how to get 3 months of Amazon Prime for free:



  1. Put 4 of these textbooks into your shopping cart


  2. Proceed to checkout and select 2-day shipping


  3. Confirm your free trial


  4. (optional - if you want to end your service after the trial) Go to "Manage My Prime Membership" and disable the automatic upgrade


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Stretching your tax rebate

A number of retailers are offering small bonuses on tax stimulus rebates, those $300, $600, or $1,200 checks that some of us are receiving.  No wonder our national debt is $9.2 trillion.  Do your civic duty and spend those checks on:



Groceries



  • Safeway/Vons: Beginning today, Safeway (aka Vons, Dominick's) will cash your stimulus checks free of charge and give you a gift card for 10% off your purchase that day or the following day.  A great deal if you can apply to gift cards, too.  Expires July 19.


  • Lucky: SuperValu (aka Lucky, Albertsons) will give you a 10% bonus on your gift card purchase with your stimulus check.  Expires July 31.




Home, Electronics





If you got your rebate direct deposited, you can show a bank statement to some retailers.



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Amazon tips & tricks

Amazon Subscribe & Save. For a number of consumable items, Amazon offers a 15% discount if you subscribe (i.e. initially commit to buying the item every 1, 2, 3, or 6 months).  The best part is that you can cancel the subscription at any time, so you can effectively get a 15% discount on any of these items all the time.  Shipping is free on all subscription items.  Some good deals include:





Amazon Prime. Amazon offers a program called Amazon Prime, which gives you free 2-day shipping for $79/year.  Also includes overnight shipping for just $3.99 per order.  The subscription is somewhat expensive, but you can justify the cost.  Okay, maybe not, but let me try:



  • One feature is that you can share the subscription with 3 other people you know (you can share with family or "unmarried partners"...Amazon might suspect you of adultery), so the cost is really $20/person (or just $20 for you, if you eBay the other Amazon Prime slots)


  • You can take advantage of deals like the transforming memory stick for $22 (expired deal) without having to pay shipping


  • Sometimes you really do need 2-day shipping (free) or overnight shipping ($3.99/item)


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Subsidize your vacation

When traveling abroad, you're likely to pay a lot in currency exchange fees.  In fact, probably 3% of your vacation spending will go toward them.  There's a way to not just avoid these fees but actually get paid to change currency.  So on a vacation where you spend $1,000 in, say, Euro, you can avoid around $30 in fees and earn another $10 in profit.  There are two ways to accomplish this:



  1. (not recommended) Go to the departures area when you arrive at your destination.  Accost Americans returning home and ask them to sell you their extra currency on the cheap.


  2. (recommended) Use a debit card that reimburses ATM fees.  Since most foreign ATMs don't charge a fee per se, Schwab One's debit card (and perhaps others) rebates you an amount equal to rounding down to the nearest $5 increment.  So if you withdraw $104.32 worth of Euro, you will be rebated $4.32.  I am not sure how many debit cards calculate foreign ATM rebates this way, but it is a very nice feature of Schwab's.  You get charged about a 1% foreign exchange fee, but if you withdraw moderate amounts, this fee will be more than offset by the rebate.  Contrast this with banks that charge extortionate fees (e.g. BofA: $5 fee + 1%, Citibank: $1.50 fee + 1%, WaMu: $2-3 fee + 1%).


Compare the exchange rates I got on a recent trip:



  • Credit cards: 29.63 (BofA Mastercard), 29.73 (Amex), 29.81 (Amex)


  • ATM: 31.58, 30.77, 31.58 (all Schwab)


You might recognize a pitfall of this approach: you have to use cash for all your transactions to maximize savings.  You can also choose a credit card that doesn't charge you the standard 3% foreign exchange fee, a byproduct of the class-action lawsuit.  By far the best foreign exchange card comes from Capital One (0% fee).  See how your credit card compares.



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Time to look at Savings Bonds (4.28%)

(interest rates will reset on May 1)



An inquisitive Rob Deals reader asked me about U.S. Savings Bonds, especially now that interest rates dropped again last week.  (Now WaMu pays just 3.3% and money markets are around 3%.)



There are 2 kinds of savings bonds, only one of which is currently worth buying:



  • I Bonds (4.28%): This bond pays a fixed interest rate (1.2%, fixed for the life of the bond) plus inflation (currently ~3%).  Your interest rate will be adjusted 6 months for the prevailing inflation rate, which will in all likelihood get you more than the 3.3% banks are currently paying.  On May 1, the interest rates will be adjusted, and the fixed interest rate is likely to go down.  So you should buy these bonds before May 1.  One limitation is that you can only buy $10,000 of these bonds per SSN per year ($5,000 for paper bonds that you can buy from your local bank and $5,000 for electronic bonds via treasurydirect.gov).


  • EE Bonds (3.00%): Fixed interest for the life of the bond.  No reason to buy these now.


As noted in an earlier post, the effective interest rate is much higher.  Because these are tax-advantaged investments, the effective rate on I Bonds is closer to 5% using this calculator (assuming a 28% tax bracket, California 9.3% tax rate, and 5-year holding period).



These rates don't take into account this tip: buy these bonds today (or at the end of any month), and you will get an extra month's worth of interest (interest is calculated monthly, and if you buy March 31, they give you interest for all of March).  And sell/redeem these bonds on the 1st of any month (e.g. April 1, 2009), and you get the full month's interest.  So effectively you get 2 months of free interest.  I get tremendous pleasure from stiffing the U.S. government, and hopefully you will too.



The only downside is liquidity: you cannot redeem these bonds for 12 months, and if you redeem before 60 months, you will forfeit the latest 3 months of interest (but if you use the strategy above, you can offset 2 of these 3 months).



Disclosure: No commissions earned.



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Show me the (plastic) money

You can earn about $500/year more than you currently do from credit cards.  Actually far more than that, if you're willing to transfer balances and take advantage of new account bonuses.  Just as with cell phones though, your best credit card strategy depends on what kind of customer you are:


1. Minimum hassle: You want to deal with just 1 or 2 accounts (for convenience or to avoid identity theft) and you spend money evenly across many categories (e.g. not just travel)


If you hold only one credit card, hold one of these:
  • Amex Starwood Preferred Guest: You don't earn cash, but you do earn valuable hotel points in the Starwood loyalty program that are not subject to blackout and (in my experience) effectively get you the equivalent of 2-4% cash back.  In fact, I just redeemed for a vacation that gave me about the equivalent of 11% cash back.  You can also convert the points into virtually any airline program.  If you travel, this is probably the best general-purpose card.  You can earn 25,000 bonus points for signing up.  No annual fee for the first year, $45 thereafter.  But let's face it, Amex is not everywhere you want to be, so you might need 2 cards...
  • (update: Chase Freedom program changed so that categories rotate and no bonus for redeeming $200)Chase Freedom (Visa): This card pays you 3.75% cashback for the 3 categories (out of 15) you spend most every month.  The categories include the usual suspects (grocery, gas, drugstores) as well as department stores, salons/spas, pets, telecom, cable/internet, fast food, gym, utilities, dry cleaning, video rental, and movies.  You get 1.25% cashback on everything else.  They advertise as 3%/1% (instead of 3.75%/1.25%) cashback, but if you redeem in increments of 20000 points, you get $250.  There is a $100 bonus or $150 bonus (must spend $3000) for signing up.  No annual fee.
  • (update: this card was bested by the Schwab InvestFirst card)Fidelity Investment Rewards (Visa): This card pays you 1.5% cash back on everything you buy, deposited into a Fidelity brokerage account every month.  No annual fee.
  • Schwab InvestFirst: 2% back on everything


2. Maximum rewards: You spend a sizable amount, and you don't mind managing a couple of cards to earn an extra couple hundred dollars per year (tax free)

By holding 3-5 cards and knowing when to use each card, you can earn something like $500 of extra money (tax free) every year relative to the typical 1% cashback card.  This is what I do.  I think I average 3% (roughly) on everything I buy.  A typical family might earn an extra $500:
  • Gas: $200 (assuming you have 2 cars @ 15K miles/year, 20mpg)
  • Restaurants: $150 ($300/month in spending)
  • Travel: $120 (one $3000 vacation/year)
  • Cell phones: $60 (2 cell phones @ $60/month each)
The best category credit cards are:
  • Amex SimplyCash: This card pays you 5% cashback for gas, office supplies (e.g. Staples), and cell phone bills.  And it's part of the OPEN network, which gives you an additional cashback from places like Hertz (5%), FedEx (5%), Delta (3%), Hyatt (3%), among others.  For example, if you go to Kinko's you get 10% cashback (5% from "office supplies" and 5% from FedEx).  Technically it's a small business card, but you can just use your name as your business when applying.  No annual fee and 0% on purchases for up to 1 year.
  • Amex Costco TrueEarnings:  This card pays 3% cashback for restaurants, 2% for travel, and 1% for everything else.  Pretty good for travelers.
  • Discover: This card pays you 5% cashback on categories that rotate quarterly such as restaurants, travel, and home improvement.  You can time your purchases to get some pretty attractive cashback.  Or you can opt for the Open Road card, which is 5% cashback on gas and maintenance.  $100 bonus (after $500 in purchases) for signing up by phone or online using code DAGZ.  No annual fee.
  • Citi MTVu:  Only students can get this card, but it is very good.  Consider enrolling in community college.  It gives you 5% back (through Citi's ThankYou loyalty program) on restaurants, bookstores, and movies.
3. Bounty hunter: You don't spend much on cards but you want rewards anyway

Without spending a dime, you can still get paid for:
  • Account opening bonuses that take the form of points or cash (e.g. 25,000 miles, $150)
  • 0% offers: Either balance transfer or purchases for 0% for 6-12 months.  You can often just deposit your entire credit line into an interest-bearing account.  People who do this float upwards of $150,000 and earn over $6,000/year in extra income by investing in high-yield savings accounts.
The downside to this strategy is that it will (temporarily) hurt your credit report.  Plus it's a bit harder to implement this strategy, because you need to stay on top of the best account bonuses available at any given time.  There are some useful sites to help you do this like App-o-rama and MyRatePlan.  Here's a quick sampling of account bonuses (no annual fee for any of these for the first year):

Cash & airline/point offers:
Here's a sample of 0% offers:
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Amazon price matching (why deflation rocks!)

A policy that many people aren't aware of is Amazon's willingness to credit you the difference between your purchase price and any (lower) future price (for 30 days after your purchase).  For example, I bought the Canon SD1100IS camera through Amazon for $238 on Friday.  A few hours later, the price (momentarily) dropped to $228, and the next day I e-mailed Amazon and got a credit for the difference.  Doing this on big-ticket items could save you a lot of money.



You don't have to spend 30 days hitting refresh on my browser.  Instead, there are Amazon price tracking websites that do the work for you, such as:





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Park your cash like it's a Ferrari

I think the best way to put an extra couple hundred bucks a year in your pocket is to find a good parking space for your cash.  If you have it sitting in your checking account, this was written for you.



Everyday cash: Online savings accounts (currently ~4%)



ING Direct was first with these accounts, but it since got fat and lazy (i.e. got a ton of deposits) so no longer feels compelled to pay a competitive rate (it pays 3.4%).  It was quickly copied by EmigrantDirect (3.6%) and HSBC Direct (3.55%), neither of which are competitive anymore.  About 2 years ago, old-school banks realized they were losing customers, so they created similar accounts that are now the most competitive places to park cash:



  • Citibank Ultimate Money account (4% 3/11 update: now 3.25%): This is a savings account with a catch -- to avoid fees, you need to have a Citibank checking account and pay 2 bills a month from the Citi checking account.  The reason I like this account is because you can earn ThankYou points (Citi's loyalty program), which pays me about $100 per year (more details in a future post).  To top it off, you can often earn an account opening bonus in the neighborhood of $200.  The current one (MVS4) expires today, unfortunately.


  • Washington Mutual Online Savings account (4%): WaMu offers a 4% online savings account without much hassle.  You have to be a WaMu checking customer to get the 4% rate and avoid fees, but the good thing about WaMu is that their checking account is free.


There are other accounts that offer a higher rate, but personally I would stick with the above.  Other accounts that have historically paid more include:





Investment cash: Money market funds (currently ~3.5%)



Chances are that you have an ever bigger chunk of cash in your brokerage account.  Brokerages used to pay you a competitive rate on your cash.  But then they started screwing you.  They now earn more in interest income from cash balances and margin loans than from commissions.



Let me repeat: you are being robbed by your broker.  They pay you <1% on your cash, and turn around and invest it on their own behalf at 4%.



You should not let your cash sit idle in a brokerage account.  If you need to keep it in your investment account, buy money market funds.  All brokerages have money market funds that pay much more competitive rates:



  • TD Ameritrade: default rate = 0.05% (MMDA) vs. TDAM Class A = 2.43%


  • Charles Schwab: default rate = 0.25% vs. Schwab Value Advantage (SWVXX) = 3.52%


  • Fidelity: default rate = 0.11% (FCASH) vs. Fidelity Select Money Market (FSLXX) = 3.62%




In addition, there's a relatively new category of broker-offered checking accounts, which generally pay ~3%.  Schwab pays 3.01%, Fidelity pays 2%, and Etrade pays 3.25%.  I find these generally not very compelling because (i) you still need a real checking account for cash deposits, (ii) the interest rates are lower than savings accounts that you can instantly link to checking, (iii) there's higher risk to your savings in case of fraud, and (iv) most brokerages allow you to write checks anyway.  However, the Fidelity mySmart Cash Account deserves a special mention because of a unique feature.  You can set it up so that overdrafts deduct from your money market accounts (if you do not have a margin account).  So you can effectively get 3.62% instead of 2% on your checking.  Not bad.





A note about U.S. savings bonds (currently 4.28% for Series I):



I wanted to mention U.S. savings bonds because they're a good deal.  It used to be a much better deal when they let you pay for bonds with a credit card (and earn miles or cashback) and when they let you buy more than $20,000 of these per year.  But they're still pretty good.



U.S. savings bonds aren't the most liquid instruments, because these bonds act like a 5-year CD -- you pay a 3-month interest penalty for early withdrawal (i.e. redemption) before 5 years.  But I think they're great investments because they pay you not just a high nominal interest rate but also a higher effective rate because they are:



  • State-tax free: Interest from these bonds are free from state taxes.  If you live in California, your effective yield is about 0.4% more.


  • Tax deferred: You pay interest only when you redeem these bonds.  If you park cash for many years, your account grows tax deferred (like a 401k).  This makes the effective yield even higher.


  • Federal tax free if used for higher education: You can buy these bonds for your child or for yourself and use the bond to pay for college or grad school.  Then you don't pay any income tax on the interest.  I did this.  My effective yield was around 7%.


Additional resources:



Since the best place to park cash changes relatively frequently, this information will be stale quickly.  To keep pace with rates, you can check out:



  • Bank Deals blog: They have the latest info on interest rates and bonuses from every conceivable bank, including the Buddhist Cow Farmer Credit Union of Montgomery County in Alabama


  • Fatwallet APY thread: This forum thread has the latest APY updates, so you don't have to go to every single website


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Cashback malls: always get something back

Before buying something online, I always check if the store offers me a little something extra.  No, I'm not after a hug or a thank-you note.  I'm after cold hard cash.  This is above and beyond any coupons or credit card cashback.  Probably 80% of stores I shop at offer some kind of cash or frequent-flier-mile incentive, though there are some notable exceptions like Amazon.com.  For example, you can get:



  • $3 from Orbitz
  • 3% from Banana Republic (.com)
  • 30% from Match.com
  • 8% from TurboTax.com
  • 8% from Shutterfly
  • 5% from Circuit City (both online and in person via in-store pickup)
  • $25 from T-Mobile.com (though as you smart readers know from yesterday's post, this benefit is more than offset by prices much higher than Amazon)
  • 3% from Westin.com (if you're like me and spend $1,000/week on hotels for business, this really starts to add up)


Sites such as RewardsDB and evreward are fairly up-to-date resources that tell you how much cashback you can get at a particular store.  The path to money back is through cashback malls: sites that pay you a piece of their commission for your transaction.  For example, if you first click through the mall to shop at Office Depot, the mall pays you (say) 2% of your transaction, which is a portion of the commission that Office Depot pays to the mall (say) 4%.



There are probably hundreds of these, but the most trustworthy ones are:



  • Fatwallet: This is a comprehensive cashback mall and community site (more on the community in a future post).  I have racked up close to $1000 in cashback from them via Paypal.  They have really great customer service whenever a transaction doesn't quite go through (for me, less than 10% of clicks).  Fatwallet would be my recommendation.
  • Ebates: Extensive cashback site that sends money back your way quarterly via Paypal (or paper check).  They will even give you a $10 gift card (or $5 cash) for signing up and using it once.  If you use robdeals at yahoo dot com in the referral box, you will be doing this site a favor.
  • Credit card malls: Cashback credit cards such as Discover, Citibank, and Chase have similar but sometimes less rewarding programs.  These malls pay you within their existing cashback programs (e.g. Citi Dividend).


In addition, if you are a traveling point hound like myself, you can choose to earn frequent flier miles from all the major airlines for the same purchases (I generally value a mile at about a penny):





Note about marketing on this site: I will occasionally post links that have commissions (for me) embedded.  The reason being that I hope one day to cover the costs of running this website.  There are two points I want to make early on: (i) unless you are extra lazy, you should click to a cashback site so that you earn the commission instead of me and (ii) unlike many other sites, I won't post only deals that earn me a commission -- I will post the best deal for you to maintain editorial integrity.

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Getting a deal on a cell phone (and service plan)

There is no single answer for everyone, but chances are that you fall into one of three categories:



1. Average user (i.e. most of you): you travel occasionally, demand coverage everywhere, and call a lot during off-peak hours



You probably already have service with AT&T, Verizon, Sprint, or T-Mobile.  You can save money on your existing contract or on a new phone:



  • Corporate/education discount.  These usually range from 5-25% off of monthly service plans (and sometimes a smaller percentage off phones).  You don't necessarily need to work for a big company to get a discount.  You can mooch off your friends or family.  Carriers even offer discounts to alumni or fans of a sporting team.  (Check your alumni website -- I found one for Northwestern University, one of my alma maters.)  Then call customer service or walk into a store and tell them about your affiliation.  Or you can also try the links that the carriers provide to determine eligibility: AT&T, Verizon, Sprint, and T-Mobile.
  • Amazon.  Lots of carriers offer phones for free, but these phones generally suck.  You can get paid to buy the latest phones from Amazon (after rebate).  Amazon doesn't have to pay for retail space, so they can afford to subsidize their phones more.  For example, you can get paid $100 to buy the Blackberry Pearl (after $100 rebates).  The same phone costs $100 at t-mobile.com and att.com (after $50 rebate), and $150 at sprint.com and verizonwireless.com (after $50 rebate).
  • Consider switching carriers at the end of every contract.  With number portability, you can switch phones without losing your number.  If you like to use new phones, your current carrier won't give you a deal, so you'll be stuck with either an old phone or an expensive one.  If you want to just make money, you can sell your new (or old) phone on eBay (or give it to a clumsy friend) and just use the new SIM card in your old phone (for AT&T and T-Mobile only).
  • Call to quit.  If you are currently beyond your 2-year contract, you can call to cancel your line (just to see what they might offer).  These companies want to keep you as a customer because they pay about $350 to get a new customer.  Often, they offer you 100 extra minutes a month or a deal on a new phone to stay with them.


2. No frills: you economize on everything, including minutes with your dying grandmother (or you lost your phone in the middle of a contract)



If you don't talk much, then you can afford to economize and pay less than a recurring $50/month charge.  The best way to do this is to buy a prepaid card and phone from AT&T or T-Mobile.  These plans let you pay about 10 cents per minute.  This is ideal if you just use less than 200 minutes a month (e.g. emergency phone for a car).  Or you lost your phone in the middle of a contract (AT&T and T-Mobile only), this is a cheap replacement.



Periodically, Target will really give you a deal.  Target often (including now until 3/1) sells $100 cards from T-Mobile bundled with a Nokia 2610 phone for $88.  So you get 1000 minutes plus a phone for just $88, and spending $100 lets you keep the minutes for a year.



Alternatively, T-Mobile.com will often sell phones for $30 (no commitment), and they come with a $25 recharge.



3. Unlimited: you talk. A lot. And don't travel.



In many metro areas (and soon more), you can find MetroPCS or Cricket.  They sell plans for $40/month, with unlimited calling (including long-distance and messaging).  There is a catch.  In fact, two catches:



  • Your coverage won't be very good.  These carriers build out fewer towers in each market, so your calls will drop or you will pay expensive roaming charges to Verizon (even in your home market).
  • You can't travel (much).  You might be able to travel one town over, but chances are pretty slim that on a business trip you will not need to roam.
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Hand-picked coupons

Home Depot: 10% off
(unknown expiration)

Lowes: 10% off
(unknown expiration)

Lowes.com: 10% off
(unknown expiration, code: MOVER10)

Lowes.com: $10 off $50
(unknown expiration, code: LOWES50)

About Rob Deals

My name is Robert. Really. My site is dedicated to helping you find "Rob Deals" -- deals that make retailers feel robbed. My job as a consultant involves helping companies sell more stuff. This site helps me make amends for working for the dark side.

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